时尚的起源

摘要(中文译文)

本文将时尚重新概念化为一种深时的身体交流系统，而非现代消费社会的副产品。我们将时尚定义为一种社会传播的身体展示系统，其中模式化的变异在共享的外表惯例中发生。在考古学上，当反复出现的身体改造和装饰形式与其在选择、组合和排列上具有社会意义的差异共存时，时尚便变得可识别。从这个视角来看，时尚通过人类身体的长期文化化过程而出现，在此过程中，外表成为传达身份、归属、地位和社会关系日益重要的媒介。考古证据表明，这一过程至少始于40万年前的颜料使用，随着个人装饰品的出现而加剧，并在旧石器时代晚期、新石器时代和金属时代发展为区域分化的身体展示系统。借鉴考古学、人类学和认知方法，我们将这一轨迹解释为一个文化演化过程，涉及身体变异新形式的产生、其通过社会习得惯例的传播，以及其在变化的社会和经济条件下的持续、转变或消失。我们认为，时尚作为一种外化的社会记忆系统发挥作用，通过将社会信息嵌入物质形式来降低认知需求。在此意义上，时尚作为一种文化技术而出现，使社会信息通过身体展示变得日益可见、可解释和可传播。

Abstract

This paper reconceptualizes fashion as a deep-time system of bodily communication rather than a byproduct of modern consumer societies. We define fashion as a socially transmitted system of bodily display in which patterned variation occurs within shared conventions of appearance. Archaeologically, fashion becomes identifiable when recurring forms of body modification and ornamentation coexist with socially meaningful differences in their selection, combination, and arrangement. From this perspective, fashion emerged through the long-term culturalization of the human body, whereby appearance became an increasingly important medium for communicating identity, affiliation, status, and social relationships. Archaeological evidence suggests that this process began at least 400,000 years ago with pigment use, intensified with the emergence of personal ornaments, and developed into regionally differentiated systems of bodily display during the Upper Paleolithic, Neolithic, and Metal Ages. Drawing on archaeological, anthropological, and cognitive approaches, we interpret this trajectory as a cultural evolutionary process involving the generation of novel forms of bodily variation, their transmission through socially learned conventions, and their persistence, transformation, or disappearance under changing social and economic conditions. We argue that fashion functioned as an externalized social memory system that reduced cognitive demands by embedding social information in material form. In this sense, fashion emerged as a cultural technology that made social information increasingly visible, interpretable, and transmissible through bodily display.

如何引用

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